Milan Fashion Week Men’s is heating up this weekend with the strong return to shows this season.
Gucci opened the week as the first show on Friday, followed by Dsquared2 and Stone Island runway shows and presentations from Billionaire, Brunello Cucinelli and Kiton. Zegna will close the festivities on Monday night, and in between, fall/winter 2024 collections from Fendi, JW Anderson, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Giorgio Armani and more will be must-sees.
Below, a look at everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week Men’s fall/winter 2024 season, from buzzy runway moments, the best shoes at presentations around the city, and the top trends from showrooms, parties and more.
Rubeus Milano
The Italian luxury footwear and accessories brand Rubeus Milano launched its first men’s collection during Milan Fashion Week Men’s this weekend. Inspired by the unique elegance and style of Italian men, the brand’s fall/winter 2024 collection sees the debut of the new Luciano double monk, inspired by one of the greatest Italian singers, in both calfskin and crocodile. According to the company, its shoes are crafted using a handmade Goodyear construction technique, featuring premium leathers such as hand-brushed and antiqued calfskin and tumbled calfskin with hand-painted details.
JW Anderson
During a press briefing earlier in the day at his store, designer Jonathan Anderson explained how Christine Kubrick’s artworks and provocative interiors in “Eyes Wide Shut” informed Sunday’s show, with a couple of her figurative paintings printed as a triptych across three floor-length cashmere sweater dresses. As for the designer’s fall/winter 2024 shoes, his signature slide-on mules have the oversized chain replaced with oversized leather tassels – nodding back to the sexy vibe of Anderson’s cinematic reference. Other silhouettes shown included velvet loafers and fur-lined suede chukka boots.
Tod’s
For fall/winter 2024, Tod’s presents the latest version of its iconic W.G. boot. Inspired by the “aviator” world, made in suede and with sheepskin lining, the boot also comes in a new version influenced by the world of après ski, in leather trimmed sheepskin. Another standout shoe is the Bubble Gommino, which is presented in long fur, precious crocodile or in a new cashmere-soft leather this season. A wide range of brushed versions are also available in natural tones. Plus, the brand’s all-new urban sneakers take inspiration from saddle stitching, craftsmanship and precious materials, giving this style sporty design.
Stuart Weitzman
After a sneak preview during Milan Fashion Week in September, luxury footwear brand Stuart Weitzman officially presented its inaugural men’s collection on Sunday. Featuring three main lines, the collection offers a range of silhouettes including sleek and refined loafers and Oxfords crafted from supple leather and suede; ultra-glam loafers and Oxfords made with brushed leather and velvet; and laid-back moccasins and slides constructed from soft suede or durable tumbled leather.
Santoni
This season’s star silhouettes come from the skillful hands of Santoni’s master craftsmen. Among the models this season is the lace-up suede ankle boot, hand shaded in hues of brown and finished with the flexible two-tone sole with Goodyear construction. Another is the limited-edition Oxford in shades of burgundy thats finished with perforations and wingtip detailing. Plus, the Andrea moccasin with its tassels and metal doubling details echoes the colors of the Lame Rosse, the rocky sandstone pillars of the Sibillini Mountains in Italy.
Philippe Model
Philippe Model Paris unveiled its first collection under the direction of Tuomas Merikoski this weekend in Milan. Part of Merikoski’s new vision focuses on an open and inclusive Paris. One of artists, break dancers, skaters and classy passersby. This postmodern take on classicism can be seen through the bold new Big Model sneakers. The fun new sneaker features a supersized midsole in colors contrasting with the vamp.
MSGM
MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti took the fashion crowd underground to Milan’s red metro line on Saturday for its fall/winter 2024 runway show. The exciting collection featured motifs of speed and technology. As for the footwear, Giorgetti unveiled a new Mary Jane in brushed calfskin with lug sole, which featured a roller buckle and metal buckle with MSGM logo. There was also a new Chelsea boot in abraded calfskin with treaded sole and silver metal eyelet detail. Plus, the collection had a cozier shoe option at the ready – a faux fur mule with leather bottom in multiple colorways.
Church’s
For its upcoming fall/winter 2024 season, Church’s presented the Lymington, a new derby lace-up shoe inspired by the English countryside in winter. The style was the focal point of the brand’s new Off Town Collection. According to the Prada Group-owned footwear company, every shoe in the Off Town collection will feature Goodyear construction, made from exclusive full-grain nubuck calf leather with a raised grain and soft suede effect. The new full-grain nubuck styles will be available in burnt and ebony hues with a black rubber “tire-tread” sole and a lighter version with a sole featuring the Church’s & Co. logo.
Dsquared2
Designers Dean and Dan Caten took twinning to a new level on Friday, featuring a show full of models who happen to be twins. The penultimate moment came in the finale when Dean and Dan walked the catwalk themselves in true twin fashion. But, as for the collection’s footwear, Dsquared2 featured shoes that play on concepts of both the raw and the refined. Sneakers, army boots and furry Sasquatch boots make way for slightly heeled boots for men. For women, the label featured high heeled delicate ankle strap pumps.
