In an era of change and challenge for made-in-Italy brands, Milan Fashion Week remains a critical place for the industry to gather — and look forward. Here are the top shoe highlights from the city’s footwear presentations. Check back for more throughout the week.
Jimmy Choo’s ‘Glamour Refined’
Call it a full circle moment. As Jimmy Choo marks 28 years, creative director Sandra Choi — who’s been there every step of the way — is taking a look back at the brand’s formative years and giving house classics a definitive twist for fall ’24. “As designers, we always take the temperature of where fashion is, and the feeling now goes back to day one of Jimmy Choo. The ’90s is very much a backdrop,” said Choi, who has Kate Moss — in all her different stages — on the Choo mood board. Standout styles include the Mary Jane mule (the brand first introduced the style in 1998) fused into a navy sock-boot with a pointed vamp on a low slender heel. The Brooklyn biker boot is offered in an ankle or knee-high version, topped off with Choo’s Diamond buckle. And the brand’s Drop heel takes the spotlight once again, as seen on the kitten heel and ankle boot in an on-trend red hue. The Diamond hardware is also key on bags, from a new tote to quintessential shoulder bag.
Welcome to Gianvito Rossi’s Cabaret
Performers took the stage in Gianvito Rossi’s Milan showroom to set the mood for his “cabaret of the future” themed presentation, full of the ultra-feminine looks the designer is known for, as well as a few surprises. “I thought about dancing and movement,” Rossi said of his styles of the season. A golden “love knot” is how Rossi describes the interlocking gold chain detailing on a pointy-toe stiletto bootie in shiny black leather. A different kind of detail, 3D gold piping, spirals up the leg of a knee-high stiletto boot, while the spiral effect is also prominent on a red stiletto sandal. High-heel ballerinas take the traditional day look into a nighttime mood. And platform boots in calfskin leather pop with a pony hair effect. There is also a fashion-meets-function surprise this season: Chic knitted boots with rubber soles.
Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio Wants His Consumers to Dream
From a glamorous midnight blue velvet platform ice skate to an emerald green evening mule with a multicolored disco heel, Aquazzura creative director Edgardo Osorio wants to give his customers something to dream about for fall ’24. “We live in confusing times and you have to stick with what works for your brand and your DNA,” said the designer, who is significantly ramping up Middle East store expansion this year and growing the handbag business. Overall, the Aquazzura footwear collection is “much more balanced” than ever before. “It’s nice that you can walk into a store and buy anything from a ballerina to a loafer to a party shoe.”
Giuseppe Zanotti’s Timeless Classics
“Less fireworks, more consistency.” Giuseppe Zanotti, who’s growing tired of fashion’s relentless demand for the new and the next, said he is focused on timeless classics and ’90s-inspired minimalism for fall ’24. Geometric lines define the diverse range of heel heights, from comfortable block heels to sky-high stilettos, for which the brand is known. Details like crystal embellishments adorn squared-toed mules. The collection also includes footwear essentials, like the ballet flat and riding boot. Color palettes are neutral, in line with the classic aesthetic. “It’s not something for one season only. Every single shoe is created for the long-term. We need to respect the work,” said Zanotti, who is keeping materials, quality and proportion at the forefront as he designs these days.
How Sergio Rossi Is Riding Into Fall ’24
With a new CEO on board and a refreshed vision, Sergio Rossi is galloping into fall ’24 with a day-to-night collection inspired by horse riding — specifically side-saddle riding born in Italy during the 1300s at the court of Mantua. Craftsmanship is key and detailing takes cues from saddles and harnesses, with classic riding boots, over-the-knee boots and moccasins embellished with buckles. Elsewhere, Rodeo-inspired looks, like the new banana heel, evoke Texas style.
Hogan Looks Back, Forges Ahead With Expansion
As Hogan embarks on a mission to transform into a full lifestyle brand — and plots Stateside expansion — the brand is celebrating its Milanese heritage for fall ’24. The Tod’s Group-owned label, founded in 1986, reimagines and upgrades its core sneakers, with tennis shoes, runners and sport shoes taking inspiration from the 1980s archives. “We were really the first luxury sneaker to come to America. At that time, the market wasn’t ready,” recalled Andrea Della Valle, vice chairman of Tod’s SpA. “We deserve to come back.” Beyond shoes, the Script bag also comes back into play, reworked with new proportions and details. An expanded ready-to-wear assortment is also on tap as the brand aims to combine city style with luxe craftsmanship. Also new for the season, a new “address” logo emphasizing the brand’s deep connections to its birthplace.
Opulence and Minimalism at Nicolò Beretta
The designer reimagines some of his most well-known styles for fall ‘24, but newness and experimentation are also key. “The idea of creating something beautiful, but with meaning is the basis of my work,” Beretta said. A sandal is adorned with a mirrored semicircle, while the “Wrap” styles, in chrome and patent, feature bands that unexpectedly wrap around the sole, appearing to hug the foot. These unexpected details are important throughout the collection, with steel snap buttons decorating a wrinkled patent leather ankle boot. The designer’s tried-and-true designs — like his classic mule and the draped boot — also get the flat treatment this season.
Mach & Mach Loves the ’90s
Grunge and glamour. High and low. Mach and Mach drew inspiration from the photographs of famed fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh for its ode to 1990s style. Crystals are key for fall ’24, used as all-over studs or oversized ornaments on sandals, slingbacks, loafers, pumps and riding boots. The label’s signature bow is transformed — punctuated with rounded studs and dotted in crystals — standing out in satin or leather.
Casadei Puts on the Glitz
The glamour quotient was high at Casadei, where the new Stardust boots took the spotlight thanks to the long sparkly fringes swaying from its high-heeled leather design. It wasn’t the only show-stopping moment, as the brand included flats with glitzy bow embellishments on the front and the new Superblade metallic style featuring the brand’s signature Blade heel in a mirrored version and dotted with rhinestones, coming in silver, fire red and magenta hues.
Santoni Brings a Taste of Home to MFW
Santoni brought a little slice of the Marche region to Milan Fashion Week, with an earthy presentation backdrop and special activations that showcased its focus on craftsmanship. “This landscape is the Marche region,” said chairman Giuseppe Santoni, who hinted that the brand will soon move back into ready-to-wear. “We are working a lot with handbags and belts and accessories, and we have an experience in ready-to-wear, which is where we want to go back to. We want to move forward into the total look,” he said. The women’s shoe collection continues to evolve, with shearling loafers embellished with fluffy tassels and day-to-night ballerinas in shearling or covered with crystals. Knee-high and ankle boots emphasize versatility, and sandals are embellished with cashmere trim or sparkles resembling ice crystals.
Stuart Weitzman Tackles the Trends
Stuart Weitzman hit some of the season’s biggest shoe trends, unveiling an expansive collection filled with boots and booties, kitten heels and shearling options catering to women’s demands for practicality. An urban and quotidian flair ran throughout, in the moto-buckled combat boots and slouchy and cool over-the-knee suede versions with a chunky heel, as well the number of riding boots embossed with crocodile patterns or offered in mixed media iterations combining fabric and leather and leather and suede. On the dressier, albeit approachable, front, suede or leather kitten-heeled pointy booties mingled with sleek patent pumps and slingbacks with a squared back and sculptural heel, as well as mary jane flats and monk straps with crystal- and pearl-embellished buckles. Winter resortwear came to the fore in the shearling-lined quilted riding boots.
Counting Crystals with René Caovilla
Count the crystals. René Caovilla is well known for its very bejeweled looks — and the brand wants to highlight the passionate artisans who make its collections come to life. For instance, the Cinderella pump is crafted with 526 crystals in nine different shapes, hand embroidered on a nude and white base, The Galaxia serpent sandal has an astounding 1,476 crystals, hand applied. A new style, the Gilda, is studded with a gradient of stones, 1,220 in total. For the more understated consumer, leather boots come with the crystal buckle. The brand also debuted Caovilla Cafe, complete with a special Venetian-inspired menu.
It’s All in the Details at AGL
AGL has a knack for making tried-and-true silhouettes look fresh. This season, the brand plays with geometric heels, experimenting with new shapes and imperfect proportions — as seen on a laser-cut leather pump with a triangular heel. “It’s full of personality, but still feminine, and good for every outfit,” said Vera Giusti, artistic director for the brand and one of the three sisters behind AGL. Elsewhere in the collection, micro metal studs dress up ballet flats, moccasins and lace-up booties. An over-the-knee boot with macro platform bottoms wraps the leg like a second skin.
Paris Texas x Antonia: The Cherry on Top
Paris Texas took over the Antonia boutique on Wednesday night with a Milan Fashion Week bash to introduce its popular Lidia mule, a minimalist style with a pin-thin heel, in an exclusive black cherry colorway called Amarena. To celebrate the partnership, the Milan boutique unveiled store windows covered with a deep red transparent film and maxi screens projecting cherry-themed imagery.
The Penélope Cruz Effect at Geox
Geox has seen major traction in its women’s business since first partnering with Penélope Cruz last September — and the brand showcased its new campaign with the actress at its Milan Fashion Week presentation. For fall ’24, the collection covers all the classics — loafers, boots, pumps, platforms and ballet flats. Suede is a key material, and patent shines in key styles. The brand also continues to emphasize comfort with its patented technology.
Kate Cate Takes On the Hot Western Trend
As Beyoncé brings Western fashion firmly into the spotlight, emerging talent Caterina Ravaglia is ready for her own breakout moment. For fall ’24, the designer’s affinity for Western style is seen in a range of leather and suede boots adorned with brass ornamentation, stars or studs. Sandals feature metallic fringes that embellish the heels, and mules also get the studded treatment. “I am so excited about this Western comeback. I’ve had some of these styles and prototypes for two years but it wasn’t the right time,” Ravaglia said at her Casa Cipriani Milan Fashion Week presentation. The designer, now in her second season, acknowledged that shoes are “the most difficult’ product to make. “I’m at the factories twice a week. I’ve been working so hard to make this happen,” said the designer.
Flower Mountain Teams Up With Barbour on Jackets, Shoes
As parent company Falc marks its golden anniversary, two of its brands, Flower Mountain and Voile Blanche, are exploring new territory. For fall, Flower Mountain is unveiling a collaboration with lifestyle brand Barbour. Taking elements of Barbour’s jacket, Flower Mountain mixes nylon with suede on the upper of its Back Country model. “Comfort and a modern take on lightweight practicality attracted us to the products that Flower Mountain make. The cork footbed feels natural, and the shoes are beautifully crafted,” said Ian Bergin, director of menswear at Barbour. And Barbour also borrows Flower Mountain’s dandelion logo to dress up the classic tartan-lined jacket. Meanwhile, over at Voile Blance, the brand — which is best known for its sneakers — unveiled a high heel range called “Cosmo” during Milan Fashion Week, which includes sneaker booties with kitten heels.
Fratelli Rossetti Updates its Iconic Loafer
The brand’s “Shoe Talks” presentation took inspiration from typical Italian gestures, such as kissing, which inspired the updated design of the iconic Brera tasseled loafer. For fall ’24, the loafer comes in a unisex version that features intricate laser cut processing, with a mix of perforation and lines. The Magenta boot also sees an update, with a restyled stirrup.
Pollini Takes Boots into New Territory
Graphic patterns and new detailing dress up the brand’s archive collection. The new Cavaliere boot, in both flat and heeled versions, is fashioned in pull-up calf leather or soft velvet embroidered with a 3D effect. The Daytona boot gets an update with enriched decorative cuts reminiscent of cowboy boots. In a suede version, the fur lining adds warmth.
Giaborghini Unveils Capsule With “Euphoria” Costume Designer
Giaborghini is refining its focus and sharpening its pricepoints. The brand focuses on three core styles for fall: a fashion-forward boot, an open-toe pump and the classic mule. The label also revealed its capsule collection with costume designer Heidi Bivens, best known for her work on HBO’s “Euphoria.” “I’ve been thinking about styles of modern shoes that I wished existed, but with lines and silhouettes that recall the sophistication of the ’90s and early 2000s,” Bivens said. “I approached the design as I would the characters in a film or a television series, taking into account comfort, sustainability and quality.”
Furla’s Got a Brand New Bag
Furla used Milan Fashion Week to unveil a new bag, the Furla Nuvola, with an immersive installation. The hobo, bucket and crossbody looks feature new hardware, a geometric interpretation of Furla’s classic arch logo personalized with a sphere.
Le Silla Laces Up With New Boots, Embellished Velvet Sandals
Le Silla never strays far from the sexy stiletto. For fall, the brand offers up lace-up pointy-toe boots, velvet sandals with rose embellishments and allover crystal booties.
