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Once the first model hits the runway, a catwalk spectacle only lasts up to 20 minutes (or as short as three minutes, if you watched Marc Jacobs’ fashion show). It’s in these mere magical moments when all eyes are focused on the latest style creations before a designer appears to take a bow, but how often do showgoers pay attention to what the designer is wearing, specifically when it comes to their choice of footwear? Rarely, if ever. Phoebe Philo’s memorable Stan Smith shoes at the Celine fall 2011 runway show were one exception that ignited the resurgence of the retro sneaker. Though recently, fashion journalists couldn’t help but note Sabato De Sarno’s go-to Converse canvas sneakers during interviews before the new Gucci creative director’s debut collection. Most fashion designers would prefer to keep the media and public’s focus on their new designs, less on their own personal style (that’s their job, after all). But a tastemaker’s effortlessly chic uniform, one that includes an unexpected sneaker choice, can sometimes become just as influential as their original designs.
Of course, it would make sense for creative directors to don designer sneakers from the fashion houses they are employed by; for the spring 2024 collections, Matthieu Blazy had his Bottega Veneta Orbits on, Pierpaolo Piccioli took a lap in Valentino One Studs, Kim Jones sported ERL x Dior B9s for his Fendi finale, and Glenn Martens kept his Diesel Prototypes on for both Diesel and Y/Project shows. More interestingly, many notable designers this season opted for sneaker styles from popular athletic brands, such as Nike, Salomon, and New Balance.
The laborious, fatigue-inducing production that leads up to a fashion show — from model castings to countless fittings — is only captured in a handful of fashion documentaries, but If you’ve watched those films, or like myself, have had the first-hand experience of working behind the scenes on a fashion show, you’re aware of the long, adrenaline-fueled days and nights that these designers and their teams spend standing on their feet up until the grand fashion extravaganza. Shock-absorbing, stabilizing sneakers can provide designers with the proper foot support and comfort required to keep them moving ’til showtime.
From performance footwear that provides superior foam cushioning to trail-ready shoe styles with durable traction outsoles, take note of these classic and trendy sneakers that fashion designers stepped out in to great applause this season.
Nicolas Ghesquière in Nike ACG Mountain Fly 2 Low Shoes
Does Nicolas Ghesquière like to hit the trail? We’re not entirely sure, however, these low-top hiking sneakers are known for their breathability, durability, great traction, wide toe box, and superb midsole support. We suspect that the mix of comfort and visually-appealing details are why the Louis Vuitton designer was seen wearing the ACG Mountain Fly 2 Lows for his runway appearance, and a few days prior while attending the Rabanne spring 2024 show. Either way, the man makes a great case for pairing a double breasted suit with cool hiking shoes.
Nike ACG Mountain Fly 2 Low Shoes
Anthony Vaccarello in Nike Air Max 90 Shoes
The Saint Laurent designer loves his Nike white sneakers. Instead of his Air Force 1s or Dunk High Ups, Vaccarello strutted down the runway in Nike Air Max 90 Shoes in White Grey Obsidian, a popular colorway for its versatile color palette that was released in 2020.
Nike Air Max 90 Shoes
Prabal Gurung in Supreme x Nike SB Dunk High ‘By Any Means’ Shoes
Prabal Gurung sprinted down the runway in black and white high-top Dunks that were part of a collaboration with Supreme last year. The embroidered details nod to John C. Jay’s Nike NYC logo in the brand’s “City Attack” 1993 campaign and Milton Glaser’s “I LOVE NY” logo, a fitting tribute to the Big Apple during New York Fashion Week.
This specific style is only available on resale sites, but if you’re looking for a versatile Nike basketball sneaker, go for Nike Dunk High Retros in the same colorway. Prefer a lot-stop sneaker? If you missed out on the Nike Dunk Low “Panda” shoes, one of the most popular shoe releases of 2023, the brand is set to restock the style later this month.
Nike Dunk High Retro Shoes
Phillip Lim in New Balance 9060 Shoes
Even Phillip Lim can’t resist a Y2K-inspired sneaker. The New Balance 9060 has been praised for its incredible comfort, stability, and aesthetically-pleasing design details, which sounds like a top-notch sneaker choice for any designer trying to get through fashion week. The Rain Cloud colorway is a popular release, so secure yours now before the style is completely sold out.
New Balance 9060 Shoes
Michael Kors in New Balance Made in USA 993 Shoes
Michael Kors’ uniform is well known: black blazer, black tee, aviators, and either black pants or dark blue denim jeans. As for his footwear preferences, the American designer seems to be a big fan of low-profile everyday sneakers from athletic brands, especially from New Balance. For his spring 2024 runway show, Kors chose Made in USA 993 shoes, a breathable version of previously released 990s with the classic, smaller New Balance logo. Responsive, shock-absorbing cushioning with a classic silhouette is a great investment in your foot health and footwear rotation.
New Balance Made in USA 993 Shoes
Sabato De Sarno in Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Sneakers
No surprises here. Sabato De Sarno stayed true to his everyday uniform with black Converse Chuck Taylor All Star high-top sneakers. Whether it’s the breathable canvas upper, the flat sole with a good amount of grip, or the designer’s own nostalgic relationship with the vintage sneaker style, we’re sure we’ll be seeing De Sarno in his go-to Chucks for seasons to come.
Converse Chuck Taylor All Star High-Top Sneakers
Casey Cadwallader in Salomon Quest 3 4D Gore-Tex Shoes
The Mugler designer’s choice of a sneaker boot tracks with his footwear preferences from past runway appearances (Casey Cadwallader wore Hoka One One Tor Ultra Hi 2 boots back in 2019). The low-profile shoe by Salomon has next-level support, stability, traction, durability, and a great lacing system that locks your feet in place. Cadwallader has also worn these sneaker boots on two red-carpet occasions this year, pushing the boundaries of appropriate cocktail attire. With its weatherproof design, we’re sure he’ll be sporting this hefty Salomon style through the winter season.
Salomon Quest 3 4D Gore-Tex Shoes
Arnaud Vaillant in New Balance Made in the USA 990v5 Shoes
Arnaud Vaillant — one half of the designer duo behind Coperni — opted for these podiatrist- and celebrity-approved dad sneakers for his spring 2024 runway show with relaxed-fit light indigo jeans and a crewneck pocket tee (a very ’90s fit that’s also very on-trend for today). If you’re in need of a stability shoe with the ideal heal-to-toe drop for medium-to-high arches to sport this season, look no further than this modern classic.
New Balance Made in the USA 990v5 Shoes
Wes Gordon in Tom Ford Jago Sneakers
Wes Gordon’s style is classic with a twist, which makes Tom Ford’s all-black neoprene and mesh stealth-style sneakers a perfect fit for his runway bow during the Carolina Herrera spring 2024 show. Stability, traction, and comfort all come included with the designer sneaker’s high price tag.
Tom Ford Jago Sneakers
Dion Lee in Balenciaga 3XL Sneakers
For what might be Dion Lee’s most eye-catching, fashion-forward runway ensemble, the Australian designer let his shoe style shine with Balenciaga’s multi-colored, exaggerated chunky sneakers that provided the perfect proportional balance to his baggy denim jeans. The relaxed silhouette of the trouser allows just the right amount of the shoe’s textural detail and pops of color to visibly add some interest to his ensemble without overpowering it.
Balenciaga 3XL Sneakers
Meet the Author
Adam Mansuroglu is the Director of Commerce for Footwear News and WWD, overseeing strategy for shopping content on both brands, along with writing and editing shopping guides, product reviews, and shopping trend stories for all types of footwear, from designer shoes to athletic sneakers for both men and women. Prior to his current role, Mansuroglu was a fashion editor and stylist at Cosmopolitan Magazine, Style Editor at BestProducts.com, and Senior Style & Gear Editor for Men’s Health Magazine, where he edited the annual Men’s Health Sneaker Awards. Mansuroglu has been tapped as a shopping expert for editorial websites such as Wirecutter, and his writing has also appeared in Out Magazine, Esquire and other publications. Earlier on in Mansuroglu’s career, he also worked as a stylist assistant for multiple fashion shows in New York, assisting with model castings and running the back-of-house fashion show productions.
