After more than a week of runway shows, presentations, events and parties in fashion’s capital, Paris Fashion Week has come to a close for spring ’24.
The season’s footwear direction has had a distinct point of view. The slingback is queen, with exaggerated points and kitten heel heights dominating. And just like New York Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week, the ballet flat trend has taken over for the season.
But the spring ’24 season’s top footwear trends do not necessarily translate into the top shoes. Though a sense of what is desirable is key, another part of what makes a great shoe is delivering the unexpected, something that a wearer or shopper might not anticipate. It’s also about craftsmanship and attention to detail.
With all of that taken into consideration, here are the top 10 shoes of Paris Fashion Week‘s spring ’24 season.
Christian Louboutin’s Raffia Sandals
The footwear legend had plenty of standout pairs at his “Loubi Show” extravaganza at Paris Fashion Week, from sculpted, gingko-inspired heels to glittering Mary Janes inspired by tap dancing. But the most naturally beautiful shoe from the spring ’24 collection was Louboutin’s raffia heels. Done in a two-strap sandal, the heel features and pom-pom of raffia fringe attached to the heel. Done in both black and white, the sandals echo a turn away from crystal bling and towards more natural and woven texture details for the season.
Nomasei’s Strappy Platforms
The slow luxury French footwear brand from cofounders Paule Tenaillon and Marine Braquet added to their lineup of walkable but still cool heels with a patent leather platform sandal decked out in slim buckled straps. They’re chic and even a bit subversive but also serve the purpose of helping wearers adjust to different foot sizes for added comfort.
Roger Vivier’s Canard Slingback
For spring ’24, creative director Gherardo Felloni brought the Canard, a 1960s style, out from the archives. It may be 50+ years old, but the style’s slingback silhouette, tiny buckle detailing, kitten heel and elongated, tapered square toe have all the callings of a 2000s shoe, which Felloni acknowledged. “Every time I take a last from the archive, I take a lot of attention to not ruin it, to not push it too far. I don’t like to be too seasonal. I like that you buy the shoes and you buy them for the rest of your life, that’s the challenge.” Challenge met.
Loewe’s footbed heel
A series of comfort focused sandals on the runway at Loewe’s spring ’24 show reinforced the influence of the Birkenstock sandal — and the brand isn’t the only one tapping into the look this season. But what sets Loewe apart is its used of a molded footbed on an actual heel. The look is still comfort — and intended to be — but the implications are big for heel wearers.
Saint Laurent’s Glossy Pump
The French fashion brand’s heels have always been the highest and perhaps the most severe; last season its sharp stiletto paved the way for a pump resurgence for fall. But for spring ’24, YSL softened the pump a bit, adding some curve and stability to its heel, plus details like tortoise buckles and a more iridescent gloss to the patent leather finishing. You don’t have to wear high heels, but if you want to, this pump makes a big statement.
Christian Dior’s Witchy Gladiator Flats
Within a goth punk and slightly spooky spring ’24 collection, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri put forth a series of shoes that give a bit more oomph to the ballerina trend. On top of a frayed black grosgrain accent flat, straps with pearl clasps go up the leg, giving a gladiator effect. The perfect shoe for the goth romantic — they’re still out there.
Dries Van Noten’s Pearl-Encrusted Mule
The mix-master had plenty of signature prints on the runway, including a series of geometric printed socks worn with T-strap heels and pumps. But the most lust-worthy pair of heels came from a jacket that was outfitted in tiny gray pearls. A pair of mules done in the designer’s signature sculpted heels were also outfitted in the same tiny grey pearls for a totally unique shape and embellishment for an otherwise muted footwear season.
Valentino’s woven espadrille
The brand had plenty of on-trend caged kitten heel slingbacks to choose from at its spring ’24 show. But a pair of espadrilles done in a netted and knotted crystal detail echoed the fishnet gown it was paired from and reminded us that it’s never too early to start planning a vacation.
Pierre Hardy’s Supermodel Slingback
The shoe designer is never one to work with unnecessary bells and whistles on his footwear, but for spring ’24 Hardy went even more minimal with a series of essential slingbacks in matte leather colors. They’re all named after ’90s supermodels, and a classic kitten heel version is named the Linda — as in Linda Evangelista. “It’s very sleek and pure and clean,” said the designer. “I was thinking of the ’90s.”
Charles Jourdan’s Hot Rod Mule
Inspired by an archival Charles Jourdan style from the ’60s, new designer Charlotte Tabouriech Giacobetti set about recreating the heel for current wear. That meant giving the heel more stability but keeping the inverted curve and the metal accent. It’s all part of another relaunch of the heritage brand.
