Anyone with even a mild interest in fashion knows the impact of Versace‘s supermodel ad campaigns from the ’90s.
Photographed by the likes of Steven Meisel and Richard Avedon, the campaigns were simple and classic in their studio lighting and set design. This allowed the focus to remain on the clothes (colorful, loud, provocative) and the instantly recognizable faces of the Supers of the era: Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer, Stephanie Seymour, Carla Bruni, Veronica Webb — and the list goes on.
But there was one particular campaign the began to resonate more this year, particularly when one of the looks ended up on the world stage again. During her epic press tour for “Barbie” this summer, Margot Robbie and stylist Andrew Mukamal pulled out a pink cropped turtleneck sweater and matching metallic pink miniskirt ensemble with loafers and socks from Versace’s fall winter 1994 collection, a look that Kate Moss originally wore on the runway some 30 years ago. The look was shown again in the subsequent ad campaign, shot by Avedon, where Christy Turlington donned the look alongside her fellow Supers for what has become one of the most famous ad campaigns in fashion history.
Fast forward a few months and the aesthetic — and the Versace supermodel legacy — has become the thesis once again for Versace’s spring ’24 collection, from the pastel colors, mini hemlines and metallic accents all way down to the ’90s slingbacks and clear heels — plus a Claudia Schiffer appearance.
Donatella Versace looked more specifically to the brand’s spring 1995 collection for inspiration on the silhouettes of spring ’24, incorporating suiting, flouncy dresses and a distinctively ’90s lime green color along with the pastels, metallics and mini skirts of the 1994 collections and that famous ad campaign.
In footwear, silhouettes felt distinctively retro, though the socks and loafers of the memorable look were nowhere to be seen. Instead there were slingbacks — now undisputedly the pump throwback du jour — that came in Key Lime green and and bubblegum pink, done in slick patent leather and outfitted with the Medusa medallion. Square-toed stacked heel boots came in satin and there were plenty of PVC heels to go around, including a platform pair that is likely to resonate with current Versace fans.
In menswear, fisherman styles were done in white, as was the new Track sandal, a sporty cutout option with a cage-like corded construction. There were also mules with cork soles, an enduring men’s trend that seems here to stay for now.
Just like everyone else this season, Versace also showed a ballet flat in its spring ’24 collection, the Gianni Ribbon, a ballerina done in metallic silver and accented with a delicate ribbon bow detailing on the top strap.
For the Italian fashion house, it was the first time ever opening a show with a flat shoe — proving that while Versace may still be in the throes of its ’90s nostalgia, the times are definitely changing.
About the author:
Shannon Adducci is the Style Director at FN, reporting on runway and fashion weeks, trends, celebrity style and fashion’s role in pop culture, diversity and inclusion, sustainability, gender identity and women’s equity issues. She also directs FN’s cover shoots and visual packages, contributing to the publication’s video direction. Prior to Footwear News, Shannon held positions at Departures, Billboard and Modern Luxury, was a celebrity stylist and specialized in fine and estate jewelry. She is an avid collector of vintage fashion, shoes and jewelry.
