Labor Day and summer are in the the rearview, and like clockwork, New York Fashion Week was back.
While the official Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) schedule for NYFW does not begin until Friday, Sept. 8, festivities unofficially ran from just after
The spring summer ’24 season brought few shifts in the schedule along with some additions and subtractions, as well as major anniversaries. Brands such as Christian Cowan and Tom Ford did not during the week, opting instead for Europe moments (the former in Paris and the latter in Milan, for the brand’s first show since Ford himself stepped down from his namesake brand).
Coach celebrated 10 years of creative director Stuart Vevers at the helm, with a runway show and dinner. The milestone comes at a pivotal time for the brand, whose parent company Tapestry acquired Capri Holdings (Versace, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors) last month.
The show was held at the New York Public Library, a new-again favorite venue for the fashion crowd these days (Marc Jacobs now shows there, off schedule, and Altuzarra also presented its runway collection once again at the Midtown Manhattan landmark this season). It’s not the only venue buzz, however, as Tory Burch showed her spring ’24 collection at the brand-new Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation at the American Museum of Natural History.
But the biggest comeback of the week was undoubtedly Ralph Lauren. The brand had not shown on schedule at New York Fashion Week since Sept. 2019, and its spring summer ’24 show brought back colorful glamour — and Christy Turlington on the runway.
Below, a running look at the highlights from New York Fashion Week’s spring summer ’24 season, updated throughout the week from FN editors.
Area takes it to the Stone Age with crystal bones and fuzzy Sergio Rossi pumps
There may be plenty of crystal glittering in Area’s designs, but creative director Piotrek Panszczyk is not one to shy away from darker themes. For the see-now, buy-now fall ’23 and couture collection, the designer turned to primal instincts and thinking about the way that humans dressed themselves at the very beginning. That included some “Flintstones” friendly bones attached to evening gowns (and dotted with crystals, natch), along with trompe l’oeil fur prints. It also included another collaboration with Sergio Rossi (its second season), with the same trompe l’oeil outfitted on major thigh-high boots, plus fuzzy classic pumps.
The Blonds bejewel NYFW with Louboutins and Britney Spears
David and Phillipe Blond looked to fairytale creatures, “Gladiator” and Britney Spears as inspiration when designing their Spring 2024 collection. The line, showcased on the Week’s final night to a Spears-filled soundtrack, was packed with crystal-coated dresses, bodysuits and corsets in black, blue, gold and pink hues — each paired with custom high heels by Christian Louboutin, cementing the group’s longtime love of dramatic glamour. It also served a lesson in community, with the brand’s runway and front row filled with muses and longtime supporters — including Dominique Jackson, Gigi Gorgeous, Dylan Mulvaney and Chanel West Coast.
“Phillipe and David are a beautiful couple that have shown us how you can be a couple, you can grow together, you can work together,” Jackson shared with FN after modeling in the show. “When I walk for The Blonds, it is because not only of their amazing artistry, but is because I am supporting something that is underlying that a lot of people don’t realize — and that is that this is an LGBTQIA+ couple working together, growing together, existing together in unison and being successful.”
Badgley Mischka celebrates 35 years and doubles down on glamour
Spring ’24 marked Badgley Mischka’s 35th anniversary. To the celebrate, the brand cast models including friends of the company such as: Bonnie Milligan, Muffie Potter Aston, Princess Arriana Theresa Maria von Hohenlohe, Coco Mitchell, Rosanna Scotto, Frederique Van Der Wal and more. The line, presented at Delomonico’s in New York, was inspired by the designers’ favorite cities: Savannah, Palm Beach, Newport and the Las Vegas Strip. Seen on the models were a range of special occasion heels in a variety of heights. “We cover the gamut but they are always glamorous,” said James on the brand’s shoes. “Our women still coo when they see a beautiful stilleto. We’ve always stayed true to what we do. As long as you make people feel beautiful its going to work,” he said. Added Mark, “We stay in our line, we don’t try to be everything for everyone. A woman knows what to come to us for and we just do the best job we can doing that.”
Kallmeyer pairs must-have flip-fops with spring ’24 collection
For spring ’24, Kallmeyer — from designer and founder Daniella Kallmeyer — focused on fabric and silhouettes. The line featured a run of essentials and basics, from white tank tops and t-shirt dresses to skirts and pants seen in white, maroon and navy. During the salon presentation at Nine Orchard Dining Room, models wore the collection paired with Havaianas. It’s the flip-flop we never knew we needed. Rather than opt for a round-toe, these Slim Square style elevated the simple look featuring a square toe shape. The sandal retails for $34. Inside, actors Sophia Bush, Sarita Choudhury, Julianna Margulies and Andi Matichak, as well as soccer star Ashlyn Harris were in attendance.
“Runway of Dreams” showcases the latest adaptive fashion
The Runway of Dreams will host its New York Fashion Week show on Wednesday, Sept. 13 at Powerhouse Arts in Brooklyn, New York. Presented by Zappos, the show will feature more than 70 models with varying disabilities modeling adaptive apparel and footwear from Zappos, Kohl’s, Target, JCPenney, Tommy Hilfiger, Stride Rite, Steve Madden, French Toast Adaptive and Adidas. The show will also host the runway debut of Victoria’s Secret and Pink’s first-ever adaptive intimates line. NFL legend Shaquem Griffin, the first one-handed professional football player, will host the event.
Zappos, a leader in the adaptive footwear market, will accept the Pioneer of Change Award. Billy Price of Billy Footwear will be honored with the Inspirational Achievement Award for the brand’s zippered shoes.
“We’ve been proud partners of Runway of Dreams since the launch of our Zappos Adaptive shopping experience in 2017,” said Dana Zumbo, business development manager for Zappos Adaptive. “Together, we have grown in our shared commitment to make fashion more functional and fashionable for all. This is the stage to be on, and we are humbled to be returning this year as the 2023 Presenting Sponsor.”
Anna Delvey and Kelly Cutrone throw a rooftop fashion show for designer Shao Yang
Powerhouse publicist Kelly Cutrone has launched a new talent agency, OutLaw Agency, with Anna Delvey (of “Inventing Anna” fame). During Fashion Week, the pair produced independent designer Shao Yang’s first-ever fashion show for her namesake label, SHAO — and, as Delvey is currently under house arrest, Cutrone threw it on her East Village apartment’s rooftop. The resulting event found nearly 50 individuals braving the rain to see Yang’s new designs, later migrating to both Delvey’s apartment and a restaurant next door for the afterparty — very VIP, indeed.
Ukraine shoe brand Kachorovska kicks off U.S. Expansion at NYFW presentation
Before Alina Kachorovska landed in New York on Saturday evening, she had never stepped foot on U.S. soil. Prior to last year, the woman behind her namesake shoe brand never wanted to.
But when the executive and designer — and third generation member of her shoemaking family — saw the support she and other brands received from the U.S. as Russia’s war in Ukraine raged on, her sentiments quickly changed.
After going through an arduous visa process, Kachorovska and her husband arrived to launch the spring ’24 collection as part of the “Angel for Fashion” event, which is showcasing nine Ukrainian brands at The Standard in the East Village through Friday. The initiative, helmed by former Zappos executive Jennifer Sidary, has grown significantly since it launched two years ago.
Kachorovska — which showed Western-inspired boots, ballet flats and more traditional boot styles — is looking to expand its presence in the U.S, first with independents. The label recently made its debut in Tsum Kyiv, and wrapped a successful August selling period there.
Alice + Olivia channels the infamous “Black and White Ball”
Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Bendet took New York back to the ’60s at New York Fashion Week — specifically, Truman Capote’s 1966 Black and White Ball — for her spring ’24 presentation. The author’s one-time society soirée was given a fashionable twist at the former Bank of New York & Trust Company’s Wall Street building, which Bendet outfitted with rooms ranging from a vibrant flower garden to a glittery masquerade.
“I definitely started with this theme of black and white, which led me into the idea of Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball, of swans,” Bendet told FN. “[It’s] a return [to] that luxury dressing, based on the idea that style is what you are and that every woman should be their own living work of art — which is one of my favorite Capote quotes.”
Bendet’s model “swans” wore tailored suits, embellished denim and an expansive range of slit, corseted, feathered and tiered dresses in diorama rooms, which ranged from a garden-set lounge to a pearl-strung vanity station. All were paired with sleek shoes, with a particular emphasis on lace-up heels, pumps and knee-high boots — as seen by a starry guest list including Hayley Williams, Zooey Deschanel, Nicky Hilton and Tayshia Adams.
Rebecca Minkoff rocks out for fall ’23
To celebrate NYFW and a new brand initiative, Rebecca Minkoff hosted a party at Moxy Lower East Side on Saturday night. Musical guest Leon Bridges performed while stars like Evan Mock, Thomas Doherty, Lexi Wood and more joined the fun. During NYFW, the brand has partnered with Rakuten to launch its first-ever “Wear the Runway” event, which includes a pre-sale of Rebecca Minkoff’s newest handbag alongside product curations from Elaine Welteroth.
The designer focused on rock-and-roll details for her fall ’23 collection, in the see-now, buy-now format she adopted a few years ago. “We’ve incorporated playful textures, statement colors and exaggerated silhouettes to create a fresh collection of timeless pieces,” Minkoff said. “It’s all about embellishments and oversized, exaggerated details — the Curb Mules are my go-to, and were designed to have a lower heel embellished with our curb chain detailing that elevates any look.”
Parsons hosts “We Dem Kids,” a fashion design and society activation at the Brooklyn Museum
Parsons School of Design hosted its MFA 2023 show on Monday in Brooklyn. The event showcased 15 graduates’ designs through the museum’s airy entrance. The show, titled “We Dem Kids,” invited viewers to rethink the times and places where fashion is experienced, and to to engage with fashion as visual art and performance.
Parsons hosted “We Dem Kids,” a fashion design and society activation at the Brooklyn Museum
PatBo brings blooming color — and chic flip-flops — to Eleven Madison
Patricia Bonaldi brought a burst of Brazilian glamour to Manhattan on Saturday, with guests including Elizabeth Gillies, Zerina Akers, Elsa Hosk and Sofi Tukker braving the rainy skies to take in her latest creations at Eleven Madison. The designer’s new offerings included intricately beaded, swirl-printed and fringed dresses, separates and swimwear in hues of green, blue, white, pink and purple — plus a bold feather-trimmed denim jacket and matching jeans. All were paired with neutral flip-flops, square-toed and sculpted-heeled sandals, forming a lineup destined for sun-drenched tropical vacations.
Tibi leans into tonal, dark flats for springtime
For Spring 2024, Tibi’s collection was filled with a lineup of sharp flats and thin-soled mules in hues of black, red, navy and white — as well as a dash of metallic gold. The footwear complemented a matching line of men’s and womenswear, portraying affection for tonal shirt and trouser sets, smoothly draped midi dresses and relaxed suiting. Short heels made occasional appearances, as well, seen in low-height sandals with thin-strapped toes.
Jonathan Cohen elevates romantic punk florals with his new Larroudé collaboration
On Saturday morning, Jonathan Cohen greeted guests with flower-printed coffees as they took in his Spring ’24 collection. Set against live instrumental music by SHOSTAKOBITCH at the chandelier-strung Chelsea Hotel, the “Punk Impressionism” presentation featured embroidered and printed gowns, dresses and separates in an array of blossoming Cohen patterns; white, black, brown, pink and purple tones filled the range, all lined with excess fabrics from the designer’s atelier. Bringing the lineup a chic flair were Larroudé’s tonal kitten heels, as well as the FNAA-winning brand and Cohen’s new matching capsule of floral boots and platform sandals.
Kate Spade New York keeps it preppy in stripes and slingbacks
The American brand took over the Chelsea Market Passage on the Highline Friday to present its spring ’24 collection, which came with a mix of crisp colors, preppy stripes and feminine florals. Kitten heel slingbacks and sensible two-strap heeled sandals dominated the footwear, which was done mostly in white leather. A pair of sculptural floral mules added some zing to the lineup.
Jeremy Scott hosts 16th annual Supima Design Competition
Jeremy Scott went back to the runway for the Supima Design Competition, whose 16th annual group show found eight student designers creating original mini-collections using Supima cotton. While hosting the occasion, Scott took time to share his best branding advice with the emerging talents — and tease his fashion design return — before announcing Carla Pierini of Drexel University as this year’s winner. “Be yourself and tell your story,” Scott told FN prior to the show. “Make the collection and the work as pure to you as possible — and that is going to resonate the most for the audience.”
Shoe of the Day: Rachel Comey’s own “Renaissance” boot
Silver is everywhere, thanks to a certain someone’s Virgo season request. But a pair of metallic boots spotted on the runway at Rachel Comey’s spring ’24 show proves that the footwear trend can live in many aesthetics, not just head-to-toe concert gear. The designer returned to New York Fashion Week after a pandemic hiatus with an outdoor runway show and collection inspired by Joan Jonas, an 87-year-old multimedia artist who explores themes of female identity. Models walked in mini skirts and flowy pants alike, and some even carried mirrors in the spirit of the artist. A pair of metallic boots echoed the theme of reflection.
Pandora brings stars to SoHo with Diamond District party
Pandora overtook Lafayette St. in SoHo on Wednesday night, celebrating its new lab-grown diamond jewelry collection and the accompanying campaign — which stars Pamela Anderson, Precious Lee and Grace Coddington, among others. Guests including Julia Fox, Halle Bailey, Barbie Ferreira, Ashley Park and more mingled on the pink carpet before viewing the collection and visiting Pandora’s themed pink food trucks. The party closed with a performance by musician Caroline Polachek, featuring her subversive pop hits “Breathless,” “Bunny Is a Rider” and more.
Lil Kim, Ice-T and Coco’s children walk the runway for the 13th Annual Rookie USA Show
The annual occasion saw highly-fashionable celebrity kids take to the runway on Wednesday night outfitted in top brands from Nike and Levi’s to Jordan and Converse. The show benefitted Moms for Moms NYC, an organization that aims to empower single mothers by providing critical postpartum and newborn essentials to lessen the stress that comes with living in poverty. Notable attendees at the event included Ice-T and Coco, supermodel Chanel Iman, Lil Kim, Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi and NFL star Victor Cruz.
Naomi Campbell puts on the glitz with PrettyLittleThing collaboration
The model pushed NYFW into motion on Tuesday night with a runway show that presented her collaboration with the global online fashion brand. Campbell worked with designers Victor Anate and Edvin Thompson to bring the slinky and swanky collection of evening-forward looks to life and pointed to Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour as inspiration. “What was a concert is no longer a concert,” Campbell told FN following the show. “The Renaissance Tour was a movement.” Attendees included Bethann Hardison, Teyana Taylor, Lori Harvey, LaLa Anthony, Winnie Harlow, Emily Ratajkowski and Julia Fox, and Campbell herself closed the show, natch.
J.Crew celebrates 40th anniversary with Pier 17 bash and performance from The Strokes
A September heat wave only added to the kinetic energy at J.Crew’s anniversary bash, which brought celebs and fashion insiders alike to Pier 17 for an outdoor soirée that culminated in a live performance from The Strokes. Diane Keaton, Sadie Sink, Joshua Jackson, Jodie Turner-Smith, Jasmine Tookes, Ella Emhoff and more fêted the American brand. Former J.Crew creative director Jenna Lyons even made a cameo, decked out in her signature sequins.
Harlem’s Fashion Row honors Kelly Rowland and more at Style Awards
The famed Apollo Theater saw a packed crowd on Tuesday night for the 16th annual Harlem’s Fashion Row Style Awards and runway show. The event continued the celebration of hip-hop’s 50th anniversary and also honored Kelly Rowland as Fashion Icon of the Year. The singer joined Harlem’s Fashion Row founder Brandice Daniel onstage for the award, which was followed by prizes for editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, photographer Johnny Nunez, stylists Wayman + Micah, designer Stella Jean, A$AP Rocky, who received the Virgil Abloh Award presented by LVMH. The evening also included a runway show that included designs from Nicole Benefield, Megan Renee Smith and Aaron Potts.
